As seen in WGSN-from recent college graduates to new designers who have recently launched their brands.
French-Greek jewellery designer Melanie Georgacopoulos graduated from the Royal College of Art, London, in 2007. Georgacopoulos’s most recent work focuses on pearls, challenging and redefining their image with a more contemporary eye. In reworking this traditional symbol, Georgacopoulos slices and facets her pearls, creating everything from tiny pearls to extravagant limited-edition showpieces.
Originally trained in screenprinting, London-based designer Corrie Williamson’s aesthetic focuses on shape and colour. Her bold graphic statement jewellery explores less conventional materials, combining both manmade and natural materials, such as wood and acetate, as well as precious and non-precious metals.
Australia-based designer Sylvie Markovina’s collection is a study in balance and geometry. More art object than trinket, her collection blurs the boundary between sculpture and fashion.
Spring/summer 2010/11 marks the launch of Markovina’s first solo collection, Lost Highway, which combines clean geometric lines with hand-sculpted metallic floral pieces. Matt-finish brass and silver are the designer’s choice of metals, which she highlights with black Swarovski crystal and quartz rock. Styles include layered neckpieces, geometric cuffs and bold statement earrings.
New York-based jewellery designer Amanda Assad Mounser launched her debut collection in 2009. Inspired by flamboyant glam rock culture, Mounser creates bold statement jewellery. Materials such as slices of agate, chunks of amethyst and neon polished stones are combined with silver bullet spikes and layers of chain.
Formely trained in textiles, London-based designer Fiona Paxton launched her debut collection in 2008 and has since built up a distinct global profile.
Paxton’s inspiration fuses her love for Indian craftsmanship with iconic images of the British Punk era, conceptual Japanese 80s fashion and the German Bauhaus movement. Intricately designed, Paxton’s creations resemble beaded mosaics of silver- and gold-coloured chains, beads and semi-precious stones.
Having graduated this year from London’s Royal College of Art, Märtha Mattsson’s jewellery combines two of her favourite subjects, biology and art. Mattsson’s work has an element of the macabre: insects are embalmed in golden resin and then broken in two to reveal a mass of encrusted stones. Other designs include worn and weathered delicate lace bows, brooches and earrings cast in fine metals.
Drawing inspiration from a range of different eras, music and landscape, Australian duo stylist Tamila Purvis and art director Melanie Kamsler’s debut collection, Real Life Awaits Us, was launched this year and features raw crystal stones and molten silver and brass. Initially inspired by the film The Holy Mountain, the collection is a rich mix of influences from Meso-American iconography and geology, 1770s handicrafts and shamanism.
A new jewellery brand based in Brooklyn, New York, Lady Grey features the collaborative work of Jill Martinelli and Sabine le Guyader. The duo met while studying metalsmithing and jewellery design at the Massachusetts College of Art in Boston. Both have a past history in orthodontics and dentistry and recognised a similar fascination for metalworking. They are inspired by decaying architecture, organic imagery and the combination of the two, experimenting with materials such as rubber, resin, oxidised metals and organic matter.
Tom Tom was launched in the autumn of 2008 by US-based designer Elena Coleman. Utilizing techniques from her former profession as an architect, such as 3D printing and water- and laser-jet cutting, Coleman’s bold graphic collection works 18 carat gold, oxidized silver and gunmetal Swarovski crystals and vintage chains.
Maria Christina Papaleontiou
Cypriot designer Maria Christina Papaleontiou currently divides her time between architecture and jewellery design – a passion she discovered on relocating to London in 2008. Specializing in laser-cut wood, she intricately works through layer upon layer, creating bold graphic pieces offset with silk woven rope and contrast-coloured thread.
WGSN Key Themes
- Bold architectural forms
- Mixed material combination
- Oxidized metals
- Less precise finishing and obvious solder effects
- Wood and uncut stones
- Multiple layered chains